A tragedy occurred on Makalu (8,485 meters / 27,840 feet), which stands as the planet’s fifth-tallest mountain, after Alex Pancoe, aged 39 from Chicago, seemingly experienced cardiac arrest at Camp 2 (6,600 meters). The distressing information emerged during Pancoe’s acclimatization phase on Makalu before he intended to make an attempt for the summit.
ExplorersWeb reported
When he reached Camp 2 just moments before his demise, he was overcome with illness. Near Mount Everest stands Makalu, a pyramid-like summit that poses one of the significant challenges.
The globe’s toughest ascents.
The Latvian climber Saulius Damulevicius spoke with Pancoe as he was making his way down from Camp 3.
I encountered Alex when they were descending from Camp 3. We shared some time together around 6,900 meters where I watched them continue their descent towards Camp 2. From what I could see, Alex appeared robust and cheerful as they made steady progress downwards. It was clear things moved quite swiftly; after spending two nights at Camp 1 and one night at Camp 2 along with reaching an elevation of just over 7,000 meters, they intended to spend additional time resting at Camp 2 prior to heading back down to await favorable conditions for the summit push.
he said.
Pancoe was a skilled climber who had conquered Mount Everest in 2019 and finished the renowned Seven Summits challenge—scaling the tallest mountain on each continent. Pancoe was on a
Madison Mountaineering
led ascent. Founded and headed by Garrett Madison, Madison Mountaineering is a premier mountaineering company dedicated to organizing climbs up some of the globe’s most renowned and challenging summits.
Disaster Strikes on the Fifth Tallest Peak Worldwide
Madison Mountaineering is known for being professional and thorough, always prioritizing safety. This unfortunate event deeply affects us all, and my thoughts and prayers are with those affected.
Ascending frequently serves as a stark reminder of its dangers.
And despite the risks involved, the allure of the mountains remains strong and fulfilling. Although we never crossed paths with Alex, I hope he finds lasting serenity. Garrett Madison offered his insights into this unfortunate event.
We are deeply saddened by the unexpected passing of our teammate and close friend, Alex Pancoe, who tragically died on the night of May 4th at Camp 2 on Mount Makalu. Alex was sharing a tent with our expedition leader and guide, Terray Sylvester. After finishing dinner and getting ready for bed, engaged in light conversation, Alex abruptly lost consciousness. In spite of extensive attempts at resuscitation carried out over several hours by Terray along with our group of climbers and Sherpas stationed at Camp 2, we couldn’t bring him back.
Earlier that same day, Alex was in great spirits, brimming with energy and regarded as one of the most capable members of the team. He had been having an amazing time on the expedition. Most importantly, Alex was a dedicated father who frequently shared affectionate stories about his kids—their happiness meant everything to him. His death marks a significant sorrow for us all, and we extend our deepest sympathies to his loved ones during this extremely challenging period. – Madison Mountaineering Dispatches
The article was initially posted on si.com/onsi/adventure.
Disaster Hits Makalu – the Planet’s Fifth Tallest Peak
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