Mention popular
destinations
, and Armenia isn’t usually top of mind. Most individuals who
travel with their clubs
Would find it difficult to pinpoint the country on a map. Even if they managed to spot it, it probably wouldn’t make their bucket list due to being located in a rugged area where historical and geographical factors haven’t allowed much space for golf courses. Armenia boasts only one course, which follows an unorthodox 18-hole layout and sees merely around 3,000 visits annually.
The fact that any golf rounds are even played underscores the perseverance of a course in a nation renowned for this quality. Nestled between Turkey and Azerbaijan within the South Caucasus region, Armenia has faced significant geopolitical turmoil and endured devastating genocides. The ethnic cleansings during the early 1900s resulted in millions perishing, and threats from Azerbaijan have remained an ongoing post-conflict political issue. Despite these longstanding adversities, they hardly register as noteworthy among Armenians.
The sole venue for the game, Ararat Valley Club, is located in a valley bearing the same name, with Mount Ararat visible in the background—a snow-covered volcanic summit and a national emblem believed to be the resting place of Noah’s Ark. Upon arriving at the club’s entrance last October, I was awestruck by the majestic view behind it yet also noticed how modestly the premises appeared.
Meeting my guide
My second journey to Armenia within a year came about because I am a business journalist covering their expanding startup scene. Although I initially hesitated due to the recent loss of territory just prior to my first visit in 2023, I took solace knowing that Armenia ranks as the eighth safest nation globally, based on data provided by Numbeo.
Following my initial exploration of the course during my first visit, I resolved to experience it firsthand. As someone who enjoys golfing regularly when traveling, I seized the chance to play at the Doha Club—a venue known for hosting the Qatar Masters—during a 24-hour layover in Qatar en route to Armenia. This particular course boasts impeccable design elements that offered quite a different feel compared to my subsequent game elsewhere.
The Ararat Valley Club is a part of Vahakni Resort, which is a simple establishment featuring a restaurant, swimming pool, miniature golf course, and recently added facilities.
pickleball
When I got there using Yandex Go, which is similar to Uber in Russia, no one was around. The first thing I noticed was a medium-sized dog approaching me. Then, a bearded young man with an athletic physique came out onto the balcony of a little club house and assured me everything was fine. Khach Vrtanesyan manages this place in the Ararat Valley region. He mentioned that his pet’s name is Panchita, which means “floater” in Spanish.
If the Ararat Valley seems like an improbable route, Khach — which is pronounced as follows:
hatch
– seems like an unlikely person to lead it. Having grown up in a middle-class household, he continues to live at home with his parents even at the age of 25, which isn’t unusual in this nation. His father works as an accountant, and his mother serves as a financial officer; they both went above and beyond to offer every opportunity to their sole child.
Khach informed me that his parents went to great lengths to ensure he received top-notch education, and they consistently desired for him to study overseas.
He commenced his studies at the American University of Armenia, located in the capital city of Yerevan, earning a Bachelor’s degree in Business Administration. Following this, he joined a program focused on Innovation and Entrepreneurship at Draper University in San Mateo, California. Upon completing his education, he secured an internship position at Facebook.
However, he declined the proposal. The lifestyle of Silicon Valley did not suit him.
“I desired to be surrounded by my loved ones and acquaintances. There wasn’t anyone present,” Khach stated. “I felt utterly isolated, and this solitude was unbearable for me. It remained uncertain whether I would ever find true companionship there—genuine friendships rather than mere associations.”
Armenians are renowned for their welcoming nature, and Khach embodies this perfectly. He exudes warmth.
When he got back home, Khach secured employment at the Central Bank of Armenia. However, this government position wasn’t what he aspired to for the long haul, so he decided to reconnect with his origins, which were based in an unspecified location.
Khach was once an easily distracted youngster with concentration issues. When he turned 13, his folks sought help from a therapist who recommended . This suggestion seemed odd considering how little the therapist knew about the sport. Khach recounted to me that the therapist hadn’t even stepped onto a golf course before giving this advice.
At the beginning, Khach showed no enthusiasm for the game; he found it tedious and insignificant. However, his parents wholeheartedly embraced the therapist’s suggestion, thinking it might help their son connect with good people. So, they brought him to the driving range located at Ararat Valley. To Khach, this wasn’t an instant hit. Yet, his parents remained determined. On a crisp spring day in 2013, they persuaded Khach to get into the car under the pretense of taking him on a countryside drive. Instead, they directed him towards the golf course.
On this occasion, Khach met course owner Vahak Hovnanian, who is both a real estate developer and one of the cofounders of Hovnanian Enterprises—a public American real estate firm active across 14 states. Originally from Iraq but born into an Armenian family, Hovnanian developed his passion for something during childhood here in the U.S. One notable aspect about him was that he had previously shared experiences playing alongside
Arnold Palmer
Similar to Palmer, he was passionate about promoting the sport—and played a crucial role in introducing it to Armenia. Recognizing significant potential in the Caucasus region, Hovanian established the National Association of Armenia and became its inaugural president. Additionally, he acquired land with the aim of constructing a country club reminiscent of an American residential development. The Ararat Valley successfully launched in 2005.
During their initial encounter out on the field, Hovnanan instructed Khach, saying, “Grab the club and twirl around.” It was a 9-iron. Khach took his swing and hit it perfectly.
Khach mentioned, “That sensation you experience in your hands.” He continued, “No matter what I felt from that day onwards, it was incredible. I became captivated by the feelings in my arms.”
He devoted himself to relentless practice, focusing especially on his short game. Hovnanian served as his guide until passing away in 2015. Years down the line, seven after being mentored by Hovnanian, his son Shant appointed Khach to lead the club. There, Khach carries forward Hovnanian’s mission of expanding the sport in Armenia.
The past year saw a surge in visitor numbers with a new record for golf rounds played at the resort, indicating growing popularity. The club’s Instagram reel focusing on proper ball placement was another testament to this increasing interest.
received 27 million views
, surpassing any other post in the nation. Making strides at the professional level also contributed significantly. In February, Jean Bekirian, a 22-year-old French-Armenian born individual who holds full status, made an appearance on the
DP World Tour
, managed to qualify for the Qatar Masters, making him the first Armenian to achieve this milestone on a professional circuit. He then went on to secure two additional qualifications in April during the Abu Dhabi Challenge and UAE Challenge events. In March, Bekirian visited the Ararat Valley Club where he organized a complimentary golf clinic.
Precious commodity
It’s late morning, and Khach and I are at the driving range. He mentions that he doesn’t demonstrate his skills with each guest, but today he wishes to showcase the layout of the course to me. Following some queries about my golfing ability—he asks and learns I have a handicap of 1.3—and after observing me take swings using the iron club provided, he nods and declares, “Alright, let’s play.”
First off, he brings me to the clubhouse to showcase his private golf club collection—a mix of whatever he manages to acquire. I jest that every club entering the nation should do so only with his knowledge. Acquiring equipment in Armenia is tough since no major brands are represented within the country’s borders, and bringing items through customs using platforms like Amazon poses significant challenges. Khach mentions that he purchases individual clubs whenever he goes abroad.
Khach is quite superstitious, just like many Armenians, and doesn’t allow anyone to handle his clubs unless their energy aligns with his approval. For those handicapped at single digits, the club maintains a few rental sets available. However, Khach mentions that for “someone with a handicap around 1.3, such as yourself, I’d lend you my own set.”
Following a quick look around, he retrieves the sole ultra-rigid club available: a bubblegum-pink Bubba Watson Ping G20. We head over to the first tee, which is an upward-sloping, straightforward par-4.
Khach claims he didn’t get any sleep after going to a coworker’s birthday celebration in Gyumri, which is the nation’s second-biggest metropolis, the previous evening. It takes about two hours to travel from Gyimri, located in Armenia’s hilly terrain, to the capital city of Yerevan, where the winding paths can be quite disconcerting.
Don’t fret,” I respond. “We’re in the same situation.
Missiles launched from Iran towards Israel caused my trip to be postponed by three days.
A
cart unlike any other
Upon arriving at the first hole, we find the course deserted—a common occurrence on Tuesdays, according to Khach, particularly when rain is expected. Despite how frequently he wishes to play, work tends to keep him occupied. As someone deeply involved in all aspects of running the club, Khach handles tasks ranging from teaching golf lessons and maintaining member handicaps to coaching and overseeing a team of sixteen employees.
It’s a unique experience being the sole players representing an entire nation. Just as Khach prepares to tee off, rain starts pouring down. However, he insists that Armenians are resilient and this minor setback won’t disrupt our match. And so, we proceed.
The first hole has a brief stretch with an uphill incline towards the fairway. My initial shot was solid, yet I sent my golf ball well past the green, astonished by how high it flew up here at 3,245 feet above sea level. Khach follows suit but slices his next attempt deep into some rough terrain. He finds himself facing what most players might deem as an impossible stance; however, he manages to land his subsequent shot within mere inches from the pin—a feat which allows him to secure a birdie. It becomes clear right away that I’m matched against someone who excels particularly in close play.
The Ararat Valley features a rugged landscape with rolling hills and a perplexing par-68 design. This course came into existence during an era when very few individuals within the nation had any familiarity with golf. Comprising nine greens and eighteen teeing areas, the overall condition appears somewhat unkempt. Big rocks serve as markers for each hole, adorned with painted Roman numeral hole numbers. The narrow fairways border dense indigenous vegetation. Khach describes this setting as a blend of mountainous desert target-style golf.
Once they’ve played through several holes, Khach contacts Shant, who owns the place. Soon after, a Mercedes rolls right up onto the fairway where they’re playing. Out steps Shant, sporting a handlebar mustache and swinging his club single-handedly. As their game continues, he cruises around from one hole to another in his vehicle.
Three-country view
Although the course measures under 5,000 yards, the current record stands at an unassuming 67 strokes, set by one of the members. The club has announced they will organize a tournament to celebrate whoever manages to break this mark.
When I reach the fourth hole, a brief but obscured par-3 situated on a hilltop, my score stands even with the designated handicap. Failing to hit the green from here can be disastrous, as I unfortunately demonstrate by poorly striking the ball off target. Achieving the course record seems unattainable now.
Following the first nine holes, we make our way to the 19th hole. Along the way, Shant mentions that he has found an ideal spot in Armenia, which he dreams of developing into another golf course one day.
We reach his appropriately titled eatery, The Beach, featuring an entirely sandy floor similar to what you’d encounter in Miami or Los Angeles. Despite being deserted on this Tuesday, Shant tells me it gets quite busy during the weekend.
From the balcony, Khach and Shant show me a group of contemporary houses being constructed in the far-off area; these will form part of an exclusive new district named Vahakni, located just beyond downtown. Additionally, they indicate the three nations visible from the terrace: Iran, Turkey, and Azerbaijan.
I sit with Khach at the bar and swap life stories. He describes what it’s like to reside in a nation perpetually vulnerable to attacks. He recounts a poignant, emotional account of how the continuous conflict has devastated his family. In 2023, Armenia relinquished control over the autonomous area of Nagorno-Karabakh to Azerbaijan. Given Armenia’s size, every individual feels the effects of the war and personally knows someone who has been affected by it.
As the moment arrives to depart, I go for my wallet, yet Khach refuses. He insists that everything is provided free of charge.
International scramble
The following day, Khach asks me to return to the club for a scramble match. He arrives with his partner, Lilit, who hails from Syria, and matches me up with another member named Alex, a Russian who left his homeland when the conflict with Ukraine began. A significant number of Russians see Armenia—a previous republic within the Soviet Union—as their initial place of safety. Alex is among this substantial group that has moved there.
In 2024, he became an amateur golfer during a holiday in Thailand when he initially took up a club. Prior to starting his game, he and his spouse viewed YouTube tutorials to understand the proper way to grip the club.
Luckily, the club allowed us onto the course, and the required caddies in Thailand assisted us during our initial round,” explains Alex. “Though our performance wasn’t great, we felt incredibly excited. We immediately became enamored with golf.
After returning to Armenia, the nation’s sole golf course was shut down due to winter. In March, as soon as they could, Alex and his spouse went to the facility for their inaugural visit and received a tutorial from Khach. Every alternate weekend throughout the year saw Alex honing his skills, culminating in over 50 games by the end of 2024.
“Khach aided us in establishing the groundwork for our game and also helped me acquire my initial set of clubs,” Alex mentions.
Alex employs a convoluted approach to obtain balls from Amazon. I ensure none of them get lost.
Following a few holes, Khach, who has a 2 handicap, injures his shoulder and decides to stop playing for the day. He wants to avoid aggravating the injury ahead of the forthcoming Caucasus Cup—an annual competition similar to the Ryder Cup—where he will compete against players from nearby Georgia. The event is scheduled to take place at the Ambassadori Club, which offers a more classic setting compared to where Khach usually plays. Khach mentions that if one can manage to play well at Ararat Valley Club—with its confusing design, significant height variations, and small putting surfaces—one could handle any golf course. I complete nine holes alongside Alex and head back to the clubhouse together. By the end of my second day here, I feel as though I am part of the club family.
Several weeks later, when Khach faces off against Georgia, he excitedly sends me updates along with a video of the event. In the footage, he finds himself greenside in two strokes at the par-5 concluding hole. Meanwhile, Georgia has also reached the green in just two shots and finishes strong with a birdie. To level the game for Armenia and keep the competition going into another day, Khach must achieve an eagle. After carefully studying the chip for a few moments and taking deliberate practice swings, he successfully executes the shot. His celebration mirrors that of a soccer player who has scored the decisive goal.
Khach informs me that next year, I will be playing for Armenia.
The Grand Tour Down Under | Episode 4: Reflecting on the journey in Australia
The team reflects on their adventure in the Melbourne region and all the excellent golf they experienced in both the Melbourne Sandbelt and the Mornington Peninsula.
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This battle-fatigued country’s sole option may not gain many yards – yet it boasts plenty of appeal.
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