LINCOLN, Neb. (Flatwater Free Press) — It’s easy to overlook the rich history behind tequila, Mexico’s iconic distilled spirit, which gained popularity during periods of revolution. Few realize that the global empire built around one of its top brands, José Cuervo, has roots deeply intertwined with an entrepreneur who thrived amidst chaotic events.
The obscure history was precisely what captivated veteran journalist and writer Ted Genoways. After extensive research spanning many years, he produced a book titled “Tequila Wars: Jose Cuervo and the Bloody Struggle for the Spirit of Mexico,” set to release on May 6. Until 2022, Genoways resided in Nebraska, and he’ll be appearing at Francie & Finch Bookshop in Lincoln on the same date as his book’s debut. The signing is scheduled to begin at 5:30 p.m.
Genoway’s work has already garnered significant acclaim from well-informed critics.
José Cuervo, both as a brand and an individual, “has become emblematic of the tequila narrative presented globally; however, up until this point, nobody has revealed his true backstory,” according to Sarah Bowen, who teaches at North Carolina State University and wrote “Divided Spirits: Tequila, Mezcal, and the Politics of Production.”
It’s fitting that someone from Nebraska would be at the forefront of this renewed interest. The fact that the state ratified the 18th Amendment, which banned alcohol sales across the U.S., pointed to a strategic opportunity for Cuervo. This allowed him to saturate the American market with his liquor before the law took effect nationwide in 1920.
This story held a special significance for Genoways, as he had spent his childhood hearing nostalgic tales from his father, Hugh Genoways, recounting trips to Jalisco and the Tequila Valley to research bat populations. It was due to his father’s professional journey that they moved to Lincoln during Ted’s high school years, at which point he rapidly gained recognition for his writing skills.
“What excited me during this project was transforming individuals who were previously just names on bottles and distilleries into fully fleshed-out characters,” stated Genoways.
Although Cuervo had personal encounters with and was affected by the well-known occurrences during the Mexican Revolution in the early 20th century, the turmoil and strife of that period led to the destruction of numerous documents. With former loyalties and familial business feuds posing potential threats for reprisals, individuals—particularly those like Cuervo who favored operating covertly—opted to keep their identities and actions hushed.
“Perhaps the most self-aggrandizing act he ever performed was affixing his name to the bottle, which is why we still remember him today. However, he scarcely documented himself elsewhere,” Genoways stated.
Consequently, many individuals aren’t aware that Cuervo was an actual person, much less recognize him as a crucial figure in Mexican history.
“In an age where numerous larger-than-life figures with rash dispositions were shaping the nation and steering it towards various paths—ultimately leading to fragmentation—I appreciate Cuervo’s constant desire to soothe tensions and seek avenues for collaboration,” stated Genowais.
A modest yet remarkably influential figure, Cuervo positioned himself both advantageously and disadvantageously amid the revolutionary upheaval. Emulating the corporate strategies of international businessmen, he consolidated control over every aspect of his enterprise—from production at the distillery to transportation via train to retail distribution on store shelves. During Prohibition in the U.S., he discovered avenues for maintaining operations and negotiated agreements to ensure continued sales even as regulations evolved.
Genoways explores agricultural and food systems through detailed examinations. He delves deeply into these topics with an up-close view of a farming enterprise in Nebraska’s York County, which he chronicled in his book titled “This Blessed Earth: A Year in the Life of an American Farm Family.”
For his upcoming book, he dedicated several years to tracing clues in order to uncover the grand narrative surrounding tequila. Over ten years back, he investigated and penned pieces regarding the industry’s efforts to render agave cultivation more environmentally friendly. Authentic tequila is crafted exclusively from the blue agave plant, which can only be found growing naturally in the region of Tequila.
When he started reporting, he became entirely captivated by the location. He continually asked locals to share its past with him. Generally, their response was that much of the history had been obliterated during the revolution. They mentioned that only a few tales managed to endure, preserved solely within people’s memories.
It caused a doubtful Genoways to investigate further.
My journalistic intuition told me that this couldn’t possibly be accurate. The truth must be buried within governmental archives.
Certainly, this could be seen within records such as those related to water usage conflicts and tax controversies. Throughout a period of twelve years, he embarked on approximately two dozen research trips to Mexico. Each time, he discovered fresh sets of documentation that offered insights but also raised additional queries.
As I began to put all those pieces together, I gained traction with the longstanding families from the tequila region.
Securing entry into the exclusive, previously undisclosed records of the two leading tequila-producing clans—the Cuervos and Sauzas—turned out to be the pivotal moment for his endeavor. According to Genoways, Cuervo’s niece, Lupe—who was brought up within the family—was a meticulous journal writer. Her entries and documentation enabled the narrative to progress through a period when Cuervo retreated from public view.
She paints a vibrant picture of several adventures, including one where he vanished into a ravine north of Tequila and built a group of dwellings alongside a mountain creek, drawing more tequila producers over time. During her research, Genoways explored this location and various others.
He also acknowledged Guillermo Erickson Sauza, who owns the tequila label Fortaleza and is the great-great-grandson of Don Cenobio Sauza. Younger Sauza preserves an impressive family collection that Genoways referred to as “likely the most comprehensive repository of tequila-related items around.”
He believes that as much as 95% of the book contains entirely new information, even for Mexican scholars.
At the beginning of my research, I anticipated that due to the length of his lifespan, Jose Cuervo would have experienced significant impacts from the Mexican Revolution. However, I was unaware that tequila production faced numerous assaults by revolutionaries. It came as a shock to discover how actively he engaged in political matters and found himself frequently at the heart of such turmoil. To make things even more surprising, I did not realize he had been charged with treason nor knew about threats made against him by Pancho Villa. All these revelations were genuine surprises throughout my exploration.
What approach did Genoways use to persuade families to allow him entry and gain their cooperation?
He mentioned, ‘The key was showing up and demonstrating genuine interest,’” he explained. “This led to establishing mutual trust over time… Once individuals began realizing that my work wasn’t merely going to be a dull chronicle of the industry’s past but would instead narrate an engaging tale about their own family histories, they grew enthusiastic and eager to get involved.
Most significant for Genoways are the praises his book garnered from Sauza and Cuervo descendent Luis Cuervo Hernandez.
NC State’s Bowen also expresses admiration. Tequila is one of the few products that strongly reflect Mexico’s history and culture, she pointed out. “In order to grasp where this industry is headed, we must first comprehend its origins. Ted Genoways’ book aids us in achieving that…”
Before writing the book, Genowais had an affinity for tequila. Nowadays, he has become quite the connoisseur.
I’ve had the chance to meet numerous individuals within this field, particularly the proprietors of these labels and the head distillers. Nowadays, whenever I savor some tequila with buddies, it’s more than just appreciating a fine bottle of tequila; it brings back memories of particular people and locations.
Currently, Genoways is preoccupied with promotional activities for his latest publication. On July 17, you can find him speaking about his book at the Omaha Press Club. During last year’s summertime, he collaborated with Sauza to create additional historically themed tours at their locations. In the time ahead, he expresses interest in expanding such endeavors further. Additionally, he hopes to devote more effort to his own writing projects.
There are numerous other captivating tales to share,” he stated. “I aspire for this to serve as a cornerstone for much more narrative development and the enrichment of that history.
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