The Dordogne area in France is popular among British tourists, yet it has mostly stayed off the radar for most American travelers.
Ridley Scott has an affinity for Monpazier. Following his initial filmmaking venture in this southwestern French village in 1977 with “The Duellists” featuring Harvey Keitel, the English filmmaker revisited the location for his 2021 historical film, “The Last Duel,” which starred Matt Damon, Ben Affleck, and Adam Driver.
Standing at the center of Place des Cornières, the main square, one can grasp why this French town in the Dordogne region serves as an ideal filming location, especially for lavishly produced period pieces.
Cornières
Angular arches outline the square and shimmer in gold as the morning light caresses its buttermilk-hued structures. The streets radiate outward in precise geometric patterns; some of them being narrow alleyways referred to as
carreyous
, these passageways are merely two meters wide. Originally designed as secret routes for villagers to move about undetected and avoid taxes, the ancient stone structures now hide chic, modern accommodations out of public sight.
In 1284, a British monarch named King Edward I established this French town beneath the looming presence of an impressive fortress.
Château de Biron
, which stands as one of the Dordogne’s approximately one thousand châteaux. The bloodline legacy allowed British monarchs ownership rights over territories in Aquitaine, a southwest region of France, greatly displeasing their French adversaries. These areas were fortified with bastides—towns centered around a main square—that were positioned throughout this part of France akin to strategic pieces on a chessboard. Among these, Monpazier is regarded as the most picturesque.
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By the middle of the 15th century, all territorial claims Britain once held over French lands had vanished. Yet much like Scott did, people keep being attracted to Monpazier—and the broader area around the Dordogne. This corner of France has become so beloved among tourists and those looking to buy holiday homes from across the English Channel that locals have dubbed it “Dordogne-shire.” Interestingly, despite its popularity elsewhere, this picturesque region often goes unnoticed by many North Americans perhaps due to the lack of non-stop flights from the U.S. to nearby major airports such as Bordeaux (BOD) and Toulouse (TLS), not to mention the primary local hub at Bergerac (EGC).
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But this “other”
south of France
Should definitely be included in your travel plans. The Dordogne offers a stunning vista of meandering rivers, ancient castles, prehistoric caverns, and lush multicolored vineyards. Delicacies cultivated from this land include prized black Périgord truffles, pâtés, foie gras, walnuts, various cheeses, cep mushrooms, and strawberries—forming a rich culinary bounty.
Departing from Monpazier, I journey for about 30 minutes to the west through open countryside towards the town of Issigeac. Each Sunday morning, this quaint village swells as nearly 15,000 individuals flock to its lanes to stock their baskets with freshly picked fruits and veggies at the renowned farmers’ market. Perched above all this activity is
La Brucelière d’Issigeac
, a 17th-century inn located at the gateway to the historical district. Last year, the present caretakers—a French duo consisting of Marie and Anthony Hardy—relocated from Brittany. Prior to this move, Anthony, who previously collaborated with Gordon Ramsay, was overseeing operations at the Michelin-starred Château de Sable.
The centerpiece of my meal—a skated fillet, roasted cauliflower, parsnip purée, and hazelnuts—is artfully arranged on custom ceramics crafted by Marité Labat, the local potter. Following a sunset viewed from the dining room’s garden terrace, ascending to the upper level reveals five cozy rooms adorned with rustic elegance for overnight guests.
‘Perigord is the historical name for the Dordogne area, and this region is frequently called by this term, usually alongside one of four colors:’
vert
(green),
blanc
(white),
noir
(black), and
pourpre
(Purple). Villages such as Monpazier, Issigeac, and others including Eymet (home to many British residents) are part of the purple Périgord region. This area is renowned for its extensive network of vineyards stretching across the land surrounding Bergerac along the Dordogne River.
From where I stand, vineyards extend endlessly into the distance.
Château Feely
In the tranquil village of Saussignac the following day, as owner Sean Feely cares for the vineyards, his wife and fellow proprietor, Caro, and I stroll alongside the twisted, ancient Merlot vines, taking care not to step on the emerging sprouts of wild violet orchids peeking out from the earth amidst these plants. She shares with me how they exchanged urban living in Dublin for this picturesque slice of France about twenty years past, purchasing an abandoned property complete with a water supply traceable back to Gallo-Roman eras. Their dedication to excellence along with strict adherence to organic and biodynamic practices has sustained their vision over time, complemented by ventures such as viniculture courses, yoga sessions amid the grapevines, guided walks around the nearby landscapes, and environmentally conscious lodging options available without meal service.
As I head north, the arid landscapes dotted with vines gradually disappear, giving way to the white Périgord, which highlights the region’s characteristic chalky soil and stonework common in this part of the Dordogne. There’s no mistaking my arrival in the verdant Périgord, an area defined by leisurely pursuits amidst nature—be it cycling along dedicated paths, trekking across scenic trails, or drifting down the tranquil Drôme River aboard canoes. This journey takes you past ancient watermills repurposed as quaint retreats nestled alongside the riverside, each offering its own charm; yet none embody this quite like
Les Griffons
The charming hotel located in the small but captivating village of Bourdeilles offers atmospheric accommodations adorned with antique stone fireplaces, wooden beams, and serene water vistas.
My exploration of the Dordogne concludes in the dark Périgord, named after the thick, nearly pitch-black oak woods that take over an hour to drive through as I make my way to Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère—a place barely larger than a collection of ancient, honey-colored limestone houses topped with the region’s characteristic sharp-angled slate roofs typical of the Dordogne area.
lauze
(limestone) tiles.
Across the street from
Manoir de la Salle
In a 14th-century manor featuring well-manicured gardens kept in pristine condition, I settle in for lunch at
Le Petit Léon
, features the cuisine of renowned Australian chef Nick Honeyman and his wine specialist spouse, Sina. Honeyman oversees the operation of the highly praised
Paris Butter
In Auckland, New Zealand, he details how they assumed control of this seasonal bistro in 2020 as a pretext for funding a summertime trip to Europe each year. His culinary offerings blend regional produce with flavors inspired by the Asia-Pacific region along with selections of New Zealand wine, swiftly drawing notice from France’s gastronomic community, leading to recognition by Michelin inspectors who bestowed upon Honeyman his inaugural star in 2024.
The restaurant operates from April through October, and the couple has recently introduced an additional dining venue.
Ro.bo
, located near the village of Montignac-Lascaux—which is renowned for its complex of ancient cave paintings. (Indeed, Ro.bo pays homage to the dog named Robot, whose discovery in 1940 led to finding the cave system.)
The Honeymans are so captivated by their immediate surroundings that they’ve decided to make the area their forever residence. “This eatery boasts walls that date back three centuries, and the local church was built in the eleventh century,” explains Honeyman. “There’s something extraordinary about the lighting here—words fail me—but every corner you glance at seems meticulously outlined as though drawn with precision. It’s breathtaking.”
I’ve only spent a few days in the Dordogne, but I must concur nonetheless.
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