Despite its severe climate, Iceland ranks as the world’s
third happiest nation
Here, Kevin McCloud shares how he found immense pleasure exploring the remote regions of the country’s far north—away from popular routes, where going out for a meal feels like embarking on an adventure.
What is your favorite place to visit and what makes it special for you?
Akureyri. It’s
Iceland
Its second city is akin to a tiny village in England, located right up north. Nestled at the mouth of a fjord, this remote spot is quite isolated. This gives off an atmosphere reminiscent of the 1940s when you arrive. Essentially, it’s both a step back in time and a shift in space!
You have the option to drive there or take a flight. However, during winter, reaching your destination by car would be quite fortunate since frequently the roads are closed or covered with ice. A four-wheel-drive vehicle will be necessary for this journey.
The last time you visited was when, and who accompanied you?
About five years back, I went on this trip with my spouse and our dear friend Ned, who has mastered speaking Icelandic. This occurred during wintertime, when being around people helps create a specific ambiance or tranquility one seeks after. One needs to understand that embarking on a drive lasting three hours just for lunch could result in finding the place closed down; furthermore, returning homeward through darkness at 3 PM should feel like quite fulfilling experience! These drives themselves are adventures—each uniquely remarkable.
The pandemic ruined many of our travel plans, yet I recall those times with such warmth. I’m confident that it won’t be much longer until we can venture out again.
What is your preferred place to be?
A few sleek, modern plywood chalets called Sunnuhlid catch the eye as they stand as contemporary cube-shaped structures amidst the snow. These slight edifices gently sway with the breeze. Each one provides ample space for a seven-day retreat. I discovered these accommodations on Booking.com and was captivated by their uniqueness compared to typical offerings.
As you head down to the southern part of Iceland, you’ll find numerous luxury accommodations featuring hot springs, where guests clad in plush white robes mingle—often those with deeper pockets tend to frequent such places. However, for an experience closer to camping within Iceland’s boundaries—and let’s be clear, still far from ordinary tenting—you have these three quaint wooden cabins… because anything less insulated might as well mean certain doom!
What were your favorite dishes?
During our trip to Húsavík, approximately a 2.5-hour drive from Akureyri — which likely constituted one of the briefest travels from our accommodation to a dining spot — we parked by the harbor and enjoyed some freshly caught seafood. It was absolutely delightful.
During our visit to Stykkishólmur, we entered a small guesthouse where we were invited for lunch following a cup of coffee. Joining us at the table were another six individuals. The meal consisted of locally raised lamb grazing on natural pastures; homemade bread crafted using flour sourced from their acquaintances’ fields; alongside vegetables cultivated through geothermal energy.
All produce in Iceland is cultivated with such sustainability that it leads to exceptional-quality cuisine, complemented perfectly by superb coffee.
I couldn’t locate it using Google Earth, but ChatGPT informed me that it’s named Narfeyrarstofa. It seems like I have excellent taste according to it!
What actions would you take if you were limited to just 24 hours in that place?
Wow, this is quite challenging! I’d gladly turn a six-hour drive into an expedition just to revisit that restaurant in Stykkishólmur. Plus, it has the most stunning church—it’s absolutely breathtaking and incredibly charming. This architectural gem was crafted by Jón Haraldsson and boasts a mid-20th-century futuristic design reminiscent of something you’d see in “The Jetsons” or “The Incredibles.” Although it wasn’t officially consecrated until the ’90s, with its strikingly modern look featuring what appears to be a giant curving spire inspired by a whale’s backbone, it remains visually captivating both outside and within. Inside, it creates a lovely atmosphere.
It simply shows that you can end up at the most remote, average spot, yet it unexpectedly features a nearly Michelin-starred restaurant operating during the heart of winter, along with stunning modernist architecture and a water museum!
What single activity would you suggest not missing?
Witnessing the waterfalls would be unlike anything else you might encounter, especially during their peak flow in late winter. One such waterfall named Goðafoss stands out as extraordinary. This spectacle involves a complete circle of cascading water merging into what initially seems like a large round basin but turns out to be a vast lake instead. The falls tower at approximately 300 feet tall, making everything appear larger than life and deafeningly loud, surpassing all expectations.
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Another view could be:
To witness these waterfalls is truly unparalleled; this becomes even more evident during their most vigorous state around late winter. A standout example is Goðafoss which is nothing short of spectacular. Here, a continuous loop of falling waters empties itself into what looks like a massive circular pond until you realize it’s actually part of a great lake. These towering structures rise up about 300 feet above ground level, overwhelming with both size and sound—far exceeding normal understanding. Every element here feels amplified beyond belief.
Where do you prefer to unwind and be yourself?
It becomes quite dark early, so we remained indoors gazing out the window, talking about our activities for the day, perhaps even watching a film. However, most often, I found myself sitting there editing footage of the waterfalls, which turned out shaky due to the powerful winds. Passing the time this way became routine.
What single item would you choose to buy as a keepsake from your trip?
We became enthusiastic one day and headed down to the harbor where we secured spots for three people on an early-morning whale-watching tour. To our delight, we spotted a whale! This experience prompted us to purchase several pairs of traditional Icelandic hand-knit mittens at the souvenir store afterward. Following this trip, my buddy Ned presented me with a hand-crafted sweater from Iceland after placing a direct order with some local knitters over there.
Your favourite beauty spot?
No matter where you turn your gaze, something remarkable is occurring overhead. This isn’t about the unchanging elements beneath our feet; rather, it revolves around atmospheric phenomena. Certainly, one can observe various instances of these conditions.
Northern Lights
, yet during winter, the sky shifts with such intensity and the clouds move so dynamically that it appears like a dragon, or perhaps even a deity!
Is there a tune that brings back memories of Iceland for you?
“I Saw Mommy Kissing Santa Claus” was originally sung under the mistletoe back in the 1950s. On a whale-watching excursion, Ned decided to perform this classic tune in Icelandic just as dawn broke over the horizon!
What’s your dress code for the event?
Layers. Lots of layers.
Have you ever had an emergency incident there?
Number one. Although I recall my initial visit, I had reserved a compact vehicle—a petite Renault Clio with only front-wheel drive. Upon arriving at the airport, however, they showed compassion due to the terrible weather conditions and offered us an upgrade to a large 4×4 at no extra cost. They mentioned, “You won’t survive if you use the small car.”
A building where you’d want to reside?
I have absolutely no interest in owning additional properties; thank you very much! Interestingly enough, one humorous aspect about Iceland is how isolated it is and how it exists as a place where living doesn’t typically cross your mind even when on vacation. Shows like Grand Designs somewhat rely on the romantic idea of desiring things out of our reach and expressing oneself through various locations. However, with Iceland, despite the warm hospitality, it’s so distinct from typical destinations that I find myself without any aspirations to reside there permanently.
Do you work out while traveling?
The last time I went, I brought along my lightweight touring skis and my versatile touring boots since they allow you to explore every corner of the mountains and hills effortlessly. Any top wellness advice for this place?
Thermal springs are abundant throughout the entire nation, hence my decision to respond negatively. If you wish to partake in tourism activities, particularly in the southern region of the country, that’s an option; however, I prefer avoiding the northern areas. Venture away from urban centers towards the hills and mountains instead. When exploring the wild landscapes of Iceland, spas aren’t necessary. After trudging through snow up to four feet deep, what truly matters is having access to a warm shower.
Although if you prefer, in Akureyri, there’s a large tunnel cutting through the mountainside; it serves as a significant fishing hub located about two hours down the coastline. This tunnel stretches approximately five kilometers long. Midway through, it becomes extremely warm due to the region’s substantial geothermal activity. Locals practice yoga within the rest areas inside the tunnel before heading to its exit where they jump into the snowy landscape outside since it can be quite chilly. Afterward, they often step under an outdoor shower supplied by water from nearby hot springs, with the runoff flowing directly into the fjord. Even massive engineering projects like tunnels add their own charm to the natural scenery here!
Kevin McCloud
is presenting Grand Designs Live at London ExCeL, the leading home and design show in the UK, from 2nd to 5th May.
gdllondon.seetickets.com
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