EXCLUSIVE: Acne Studios Converts Paris Store into a Forever Art Gallery

PARIS

– At Acne Studios,
art
is essentially intertwined with the attire.

At runway shows and in capsule collections, creative director Jonny Johansson has used the label as an experimental ground for artist collaborations. The Swedish brand is now taking this a step further by transforming its initial Paris store into its first enduring gallery space.

The 650-square-foot boutique,
opened in 2008
Beneath the storied arches of the Palais-Royal, Acne Paper Palais Royal will resume operations on June 26. This location will serve as a hub for various artistic activities including exhibitions, artist discussions, magazine unveilings, book signing sessions, and additional cultural happenings.

Johansson referred to it as a tangible spin-off of Acne Paper, the
magazine
he launched in 2005 and
revived in 2021
. The publication recently celebrated its gold-themed 20th anniversary issue with pop-ups in Paris, Milan, New York City and Shanghai.

The magazine was initially created to embody Acne’s “democratic” stance on fashion and their openness to collaborate with various other brands and fields.

Similarly, the exhibit area will highlight prominent figures as well as up-and-coming artists, guided by Thomas Persson, who oversees Acne Paper as its editor-in-chief, alongside Lotta Nilsson, responsible for creative initiatives and publications at
Acne Studios
, Johansson said.

The gallery operates as a voluntary space,” he explained. “We’re not professional gallerists, and that’s an important point to make.

Johansson stated that the objective is not about purchasing or selling art, but instead supporting artists and intellectuals. He mentioned, “We want this place to be for individuals who might lack sufficient acknowledgment or those who motivate us.” According to him, it functions as more of a platform.

Despite expanding into more commercially oriented parts of Paris, Johansson has maintained his presence at this location. Acne now operates two standalone stores: one
On the renowned Rue Saint-Honoré
And another one on Rue Froissart in the fashionable Marais neighborhood.

He mentioned that they were reluctant to depart from the space, though maintaining it proved inefficient,” referring to the Palais-Royal store, which was the brand’s initial venture beyond Scandinavia. ‘I enjoy spending time there,’ he added enthusiastically. ‘It’s a neighborhood I truly appreciate.’

The gallery’s inaugural exhibit will feature a solo show by Paul Kooiker, an artist whose contributions include the most recent edition of Acne Paper as well as the photography for the brand’s fall 2022 campaign starring Rosalía. This Dutch photographer is set to unveil a fresh collection entitled “2025,” which comprises 42 portraits of pupils from the Gerrit Rietveld Academie in Amsterdam.

Acne intends to hold an opening cocktail event on June 25 coinciding with the Paris men’s fashion weeks.

In contrast to other high-end brands that portray themselves as “cultural” entities, Johansson avoids collaborating with esteemed artists. He shrugged off the idea, saying, “Warhol isn’t something I’d go for.” They aim to see themselves as distinct, possibly more approachable and less bureaucratic.

The gallery located on Greene Street in New York displayed a collection of artworks by Jonathan Lyndon Chase last month, coinciding with the Frieze New York art fair.

The artist from Philadelphia, who examines queer Black identities via the perspective of home life, created the design for the set.
Acne’s spring 2025 show
Additionally, a limited-edition line of apparel and home goods will be released globally at the end of June.

In the meantime, the company’s newly established offices in Paris, set to debut formally in September, will showcase works from frequent partners such as Daniel Silver and Max Lamb.

Although Johansson acknowledges that he prefers spending his free time with music rather than visiting galleries, he enjoys browsing art fairs for fresh ideas. However, he has become disillusioned with the established canon of refined tastes.

He mentioned that acquiring these items demonstrates your ability to spend money freely. It also shows off your excellent taste, without conveying anything more substantial,” he commented about the competition for high-profile possessions. “Instead, let’s showcase some current trends that feel modern.

Although he agreed that there’s always a tactical aspect to connecting a fashion label with cultural initiatives, he warned against making this connection overly contrived.

“When you quantify such elements, their worth seems to diminish rapidly. They turn into mere objects without spirit, which means you must respond impulsively to truly create anything. It’s akin to composing a song or similar endeavors. If your aim is to pen a chart-topping tune, I doubt you’ll succeed, despite having a recipe for success,” he pondered.

“I believe calculating fashion is just as impossible. The unpredictability is part of its charm,” he went on. “Similarly, attempting to purchase culture is akin to trying to buy love; likely, both are beyond monetary reach.”

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