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The Fragrant French Hideaway Where Locals Flee Holiday Crowds

While Provence and the
Côte d’Azur
often draw attention, it tends to be the
Landes coast
That remains the top hidden gem for French vacationers during summertime. In this region of southwestern France, surfers, wine producers, and creatives leave behind the hustle of Paris for the soothing scent of pines and a laid-back lifestyle near the beach.

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I didn’t randomly discover this place. My partner’s family hails from this area, and this triangular piece of land bordered by a forest near the Atlantic Ocean has turned into one of my favorite spots.
favourite parts of France.
Once the urban blues set in, a handful of days with sunlight, fresh forest air, and gentle Atlantic winds seem like the perfect remedy.

One spring, we took off for
Bordeaux
And they got on a train moving southwest toward Hendaye, stopping at the station briefly to grab a sticky, rum-infused canelé – the area’s iconic dessert dating back to the 1700s. A visit to Nouvelle-Aquitaine doesn’t feel complete without trying one of these.

Two hours later
When I reached Dax, an ancient French town with origins tracing back to the fourth century and famous for its therapeutic hot springs, we traversed the Adour River as evening fell to arrive at the village of Sainte-Marie-de-Gosse. The atmosphere seemed frozen in time there.

The following day, as I drove deeper southwest, I wandered through expanses of maritime pines and occasionally spotted views of the Pyrénées. This region is defined by its waters and woods: salty breezes from the sea, fresh mountain airs, and the quiet rustle of tree canopies.

In 2024, Landes welcomed 1.7 million tourists, which could be surprising considering the area’s tranquil image. Nonetheless, that is
part of its charm
It holds great affection among the French but remains relatively unknown on an international scale.

Staying at a villa allows guests to adapt to the local lifestyle. I spoke with Joanna La Forge, a British woman who operates Villa Rentals under the name Summer France alongside her French spouse. “I have always aspired to reside in France,” she shared. “However, it’s more than just the scenery; it’s about embracing a slower way of life. The people truly know how to savor each moment.”

Joanna suggests staying at the communes of Moliets or Messanges, offering tranquility in the Landes region but close enough to explore the Basque Country and Spain. Here, lodging for couples costs approximately $800 USD in August through Summer France, then drops to about $250 USD in September. Visitors renting villas often bike to Moliets’s weekly market and participate in surfing classes.
Golf Surf School
And collect asparagus in Azur.

Wine production here also has unexpected elements. In Messanges, they store barrels under the sand dunes, reviving a medieval technique to achieve a fruity taste. It’s just a brief bike ride away.
the villas
,
Bergerie of the Vinegrowers of Messanges
yields a sandy-textured rosé wine crafted from Cabernet Franc and Merlot grapes.

The Auberge du Soleil in Azur
, a charming country inn formerly favored by ex-president François Mitterrand, offers classic Landes dishes in a modest atmosphere. Located just 15 minutes from Magscq, the Coussau family runs this establishment.
Relais de la Poste
features an elegant two-Michelin-starred dining room along with a laid-back bistro. Those fond of seafood should make their way to
Chez Vincent
in Léon.

Many of the villas feature terraces and individual swimming pools, nestled among pine trees. Visitors return annually, frequently to the very same villa.

The peaceful cadence characterizes the Landes coastline. At Capbreton and Hossegor, untamed Atlantic rollers crash upon shores backed by sand dunes. Optimal times to visit are in September once the throngs have dispersed; here you find much beyond landscapes. Initially drawn to the beaches, visitors remain captivated by the local lifestyle.

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