Sitting almost completely alone at the top of the 577 steps up to the Bom Jesus hilltop sanctuary, I took a moment to absorb the details. The sun was setting over the
Portuguese
city of Braga to the west, casting a golden light from Monte das Caldas and illuminating the delicate Baroque façade of the Unesco-listed Bom Jesus De Monte, which towers 400 metres high. The sound of water falling from an imperial eagle-topped fountain mingled with the chirrups of swallows who swooped and dived in the final embers of daylight. This is one of the top attractions in Braga, and I sat with just my thoughts for company, only three other people in sight.
Braga is the less renowned among Portugal’s three primary cities, missing out on prime recognition to
Lisbon
and
Porto
Although these two cities are stunning, their popularity has surged recently, leading to an influx of tourists. In 2024, Lisbon hosted approximately 8.8 million visitors, whereas Porto saw close to six million during the same timeframe. This surge makes it challenging to secure a place for a peaceful cup of coffee or capture photos devoid of crowds. Therefore, consider exploring Braga as an ideal substitute; last year, this city drew around 639,000 visitors.
“It is the ‘
Rome
Luis Ferreira, who leads the Economy and Tourism Division, clarifies during our conversation at the Art Deco-styled tourist office in central Braga, saying it should be ‘the City of Empires,’ not ‘Rome of Portugal.’ The city earned this title due to its rich historical tapestry stretching from the establishment of Bracara Augusta in 16 BCE through medieval Christian periods up to its transformation in the 18th century.
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Starting off as any diligent traveler would, I kicked things off at Lago Santa Cruz with a map, a cup of coffee, and a pastry—all for merely €3—while soaking up the gentle rays of spring sunlight. Adjacent to where I sat stood the intricately adorned Baroque facade of the Church of Saint Cross, boasting twin spires housing eight bells under an expansive cerulean sky. Across from this structure lay the Church of São Marcos, whose entrance was framed by two colonially styled extensions. Over the past year, Braga had revamped itself with a fresh guidebook featuring recommended tours, which I followed closely, gradually comprehending the sheer volume of attractions available here. The city boasts remnants of Roman civilization, more than three dozen churches, all equipped with their own quartet of bells earning it the moniker “City of Bells,” along with a grand cathedral, labyrinthine medieval thoroughfares, contemporary art spaces, various museums, not forgetting numerous boutiques scattered throughout.
I started my journey in the Porto Nuovo section of the city, situated at the outskirts of the historic district, where I discovered the Cathedral Se standing tall amidst smaller two- and three-story structures. Its medieval towers gave it a distinctly Gothic appearance, reminiscent of cathedrals found in the UK and France. Believing that destiny led me there, I ventured inside to admire the arched ceilings, intricately designed altars, and charming side chapels. This was a peaceful yet grandiose location.
Then I spun around.
Above the entrance stood the grand choir and organ – an exquisite Baroque gilded work of art. Tens of thousands of bronzed pipeworks formed the forefront against the golden and ebony tones of the elevated choir area, with two stained-glass windows resembling eyes adding splashes of color. The ceiling murals were mesmerizingly gorgeous.
After recovering from that remarkable sight, I strolled down the pedestrianized Rua Dom Paio Mendes, where the smell of grilled sardines filled the air,
bacalhau (
salted cod) and
francesinha
A rich blend of meats, melting cheeses, and a savory beer-and-tomato sauce drifted out from cafes and eateries. I paused for a moment to admire the 18th-century City Gate, Arco Porto Nuova, situated in the apparently tranquil Largo La Praga Velha. In this area, structures lining the tight lanes were adorned with vibrant hues of sunny yellow, deep burgundy, and sky-blue cornflower.
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Pleasantly quiet during the day, at night these streets came alive with diners out to enjoy the warm spring evening. The tapas and the
vinho verde
They were so affordably priced that they proved irresistible, leading me to select Restaurant Inato, a Michelin-endorsed location without the hefty price tag. From my window seat, I indulged in what might be the finest focaccia I’ve ever tasted, paired with perfectly crispy tempura cauliflower enhanced by a mildly spicy mayo. This classic
bacalhau
I ordered my main course along with a side dish of
grão de bico
(mashed chickpeas) with a softly cooked egg incorporated. Alongside a bottle of water and a glass of vinho verde, the total cost amounted to under €44 for the meal.
The next day, as I wandered around Braga’s expansive Praca da Republica, every street seemed to offer something fresh and unexpected. A waitress suggested ascending the Nossa da Torre for panoramic views of the city. From its five art-adorned levels, I caught sight of my subsequent stop: Bom Jesus do Monte, standing majestically on Mount Espinho, resembling an intricately layered white wedding cake.
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The zigzag staircase of 577 steps at Bom Jesus represents the soul’s tortuous journey toward salvation. Each landing has fountains that depict biblical scenes. Pilgrims would traditionally climb on their knees, but thankfully, a water-powered funicular provided a rather more sedate ride to the top. The sanctuary is adorned with frescoes and sculptures and surrounded by manicured gardens and a tree-lined park.
As I looked out over Braga, I reflected that whereas Porto and Lisbon compete for notice with their throngs and lines, Braga just persists; genuine, unrushed, and deeply Portuguese.
As the swallows vanished with the sunset, it dawned on me that I had stumbled upon something truly special in contemporary travel—a place that unveils itself gradually and feels equally cherished by both residents and tourists. Though less renowned than its Italian counterpart, this Portuguese gem might just owe its finest attribute to its relative obscurity.
Getting around
The heart of Braga is mostly designed for pedestrians, and the city has made efforts to ensure that most areas are wheelchair-accessible. You’ll find drop curbs frequently, and ramps are provided at older structures. However, some stores still have stairs leading into them.
Travelling by foot is the best option, but taxis are widely available. A taxi from the Old Town to the foot of Bom Jesus de Monte will cost around €6.
Where to stay
Guesthouse at Vila Santa Cruz
An affordable choice is the Guest House Vila Santa Cruz, a basic guesthouse offering breathtaking vistas right at the heart of Braga Old Town.
Holiday Inn Braga
If you’re looking for a mid-range choice, the Holiday Inn Braga, which opened in October 2024, provides well-known amenities in a contemporary setting featuring a fitness center, swimming pool, and sauna, along with complimentary parking and a round-the-clock eatery.
Hotel do Templo
Hotel do Templo near Bom Jesus de Monte has a stunning location right outside of Bom Jesus. It has a swimming pool and spa facilities.
Where to eat
Inato Bistrô is a Michelin-acclaimed eatery that blends traditional flavors with contemporary twists, all without the hefty price tag. Meals start at just €19.
Cozinha de Se is a contemporary place with a Scandinavian vibe. Meals start at €15.50.
How to get there
Journeys to Porto from the majority of UK airports last around 2 hours and 45 minutes, starting at £50 for a round trip flight.
Ryanair,
easyJet or British Airways.
A trip to Braga via coach lasts around 40 minutes and has a price of roughly €8.
Matthew Dennis was a visitor of Braga Tourism and stayed at an IHG hotel.
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