[ABOUT TOWN]
: Mullae-dong
Often seen as a cutting-edge urban hub brimming with skyscrapers, vibrant billboards, and bustling subway systems, Seoul also harbors a warm, grounded essence that’s easily overlooked. The daily life of hardworking residents varies significantly depending on which area they call home. Some might unwind over piping-hot grilled pork belly at cozy BBQ joints, enjoy soju beneath tents, sip coffee atop century-old structures, or explore lesser-known walking paths around town. Every district—known locally as “dong”—boasts its distinct heritage and traces from earlier eras before the swift transformation took hold, turning Seoul into a patchwork quilt of traditions and moods. In this collection, the Korea JoongAng Daily explores each neighborhood’s rich history alongside their current scenes, offering insights on what sights to take in and where to dine for those wishing to experience Seoul authentically.
A narrow passage located in MullAE-dong within the Yeongdeungpo District of western Seoul [LEE JIAN]
Throughout much of its existence as an early 20th-century steel production hub within modern-day Seoul’s Yeongdeungpo District, Mullae-dong served primarily as a transit point towards Hongdae—a formerly edgy area now transformed into a fashionable enclave popular among avant-garde artists. Nowadays, though, numerous visitors journey to this former factory district—located just four metro stations away from Hongdae—to experience stylish cafes and romantic outings. Amidst the echoes of metalwork and lingering scents reminiscent of industry days gone by, Mullae-dong has quietly become a favored locale for residents seeking a blend of youthful energy and culinary innovation that seamlessly merges tradition with contemporary flair.
Rusty to Hip: The Origins of Mullae-dong
In 1941, during Japan’s colonial rule over Korea from 1910 to 1945, Mullae-dong initially emerged as a neighborhood primarily housing Korean workers. By the ’60s, it transformed into an industrial hub centered around steel component production. However, local enterprises started struggling against their Chinese counterparts in the early ‘90s, leading many firms to close down. This shift paved the way for younger artists moving into the area. Over the past two decades, Mullae-dong has undergone a remarkable transformation, naturally evolving back into a lively community known for its youthfulness and artistic flair. Today, this vibrant atmosphere blends seamlessly alongside residual elements of its former industrial identity.
Itinerary
Korean home-cooked lunch
hanok
Start your day with a meal at a charming Korean eatery located within a hanok (traditional Korean house) known as
Shimpyo Mallang.
Through its compact double entrances, the eatery mostly preserves its traditional hanok design, featuring individual chambers and a petite central patio enclosed by cozy timber frames.
Spicy cold kimchi bibimbap at Shimpyo Mallang [LEE JIAN]
The menu includes two standard items and two that change with the season; some consist of just one primary course, while others come paired with Korean side dishes referred to as
banchan
, all carefully laid out on a wooden platter. Though it may not be extravagant, this dining spot is ideal for those seeking to enjoy wholesome, genuine, home-cooked Korean fare.
On Friday, the seasonal menu featured bibimbap.
yeolmu
(young radish) kimchi (9,500 won) and fried shrimp with rice (12,500 won). The eatery also has a fun drinks list, including ginger milk tea (5,000 won) with housemade ginger syrup and
omija
The (magnolia berry) tonic priced at 5,000 won, combines whiskey with gin and tonic. It’s recommended to make a reservation.
Discover the Mullae Art District
A statue stands on the primary street of Mullae-dong [LEE JIAN]
After enjoying a satisfying meal, it’s time to embark on an exploration, and you won’t have to go far since the restaurant is located within the Mullae Arts Village – your upcoming stop.
The dull concrete walls lining the slim alleys beneath the crisscrossing overhead wires transform into vibrant displays of multicolored, clever graffiti and eccentric sculptures.
Murals adorning the alleys of Mullae-dong [LEE JIAN]
Caffeine recharge
Espresso at Mullaebanggu [LEE JIAN]
Around a dozen cafés pepper the narrow streets of the neighborhood, each offering a distinct atmosphere that blends elements from bygone eras with contemporary touches, much like
Lucky Dabang,
where you can enjoy a contemporary take on Korea’s traditional café,
dabang
, culture or
Rust Bakery
, where you can savor pastries and coffee in a multi-story brick structure featuring outdoor roof-top dining.
To enjoy a more laid-back environment, head over to
Mullaebanggu
, a cozy spot that serves as a hidden gem for locals. As you make your way there, you’ll notice a cluster of about ten steel factories in the north end of town and might catch sight of their workforce active at these sites.
Steel factory iron bars in Mullae-dong [LEE JIAN]
Located in a cozy, low-ceilinged structure bathed in natural light, Mullaebanggu exudes a trendy but down-to-earth and inviting atmosphere. The place frequently attracts local residents who either socialize or quietly work on their laptops. Their selection of espressos lets patrons personalize their drinks with an array of toppings ranging from inventive options like caramel and ice cream to more traditional choices such as peanut bread.
Mullaebanggu additionally features an array of bespoke stationary, keychains, postcards, glass mugs, as well as bigger items such as T-shirts and backpacks. The products from Chorok Studio are favored by local residents online due to their distinctive designs which convey fashionable and upbeat visuals and typography.
Café area at Mullaebanggu [LEE JIAN]
Make Mullae memorabilia
Just across the main road from Mullaebbanggu lies a somewhat more commercially oriented area of Mullae, featuring an increased number of restaurants and stores.
Prominent spots to visit include the
Artfield Gallery,
This venue showcases exhibitions featuring local artists, hosting various new displays every few months. Located in two spots in Mullae, entry remains free of charge.
A showcase at Artfield Gallery [LEE JIAN]
Vince Garage
offers pre-owned men’s attire, encompassing U.S. casual wear and blokecore pieces. Within a cozy wooden shelter inspired by the spirit of the American West, this place boasts an extensive array of items such as classic Ray-Ban shades, Polo Ralph Lauren coats, Nike sneakers, and Edwin rugby tops.
Retro clothing and footwear available at Vince Garage [LEE JIAN]
At the
Photo Market
The instant photo booths operate round-the-clock. For 5,000 won, you can get five color prints developed on quality film, and another 5,000 won will get you one black-and-white photograph printed on regular paper. Visitors also have the option to rent a film camera outside via an exclusive vending machine for a full day’s use, perfect for capturing images of the surrounding area.
Within the Photography Market, for immediate photo booth services in Mullae-dong [LEE JIAN]
Barbecue dinner
There are plenty of choices for dinner — however, to experience the original Mull Ae vibe, head over there.
Golmogjib
, a restaurant specializing in ducks that opened in 2008.
Duck bulgogi at Golmokjib [LEE JIAN]
The highlight of this place is the duck bulgogi ( priced at 16,000 won ), consisting of thinly cut duck that has been gently seasoned with a mixture of sweet and savory sauce. The dish includes sautéed diced onions and chives cooked together on a hot stone plate served directly to your table. Their homemade side dishes stand out, particularly their green onion kimchi, enhancing the overall taste profile of the main offering. To conclude your dining experience as traditionally done in Korea, enjoy some crispy fried rice. As you near completion of the meat portion, scatter a light coating of kimchi-infused rice over the same heated stone surface used for cooking earlier; then let it sizzle along with the rendered duck fats, resulting in an explosion of flavors.
Cold beer in a wooden shelter
Fried potatoes from Belgium and beer at Old Mullae [LEE JIAN]
Be sure to leave room in your stomach for a pint of draft beer at the local favorite bar, The
Old Mullae
It was among the first new enterprises to establish itself in Mullae, transforming a dilapidated industrial area within a big wooden structure into a straightforward café-cum-bar. This expansive location features ample ventilation thanks to its wide-open entranceway, providing a perfect setting for enjoying a cold brew when the gentle night air flows through.
Outside of Old Mullae, a neighborhood pub [LEE JIAN]
The establishment takes pride in its extensive beer offerings, featuring IPAs, Pale Ales, lagers—and some varieties infused with fruit—as well as an Earl Gray-flavored option. The prices for these beverages span from 8,000 won to 11,000 won.
At Old Mullae, their standout dish is the Mullae Platter ( priced at 40,000 won ), featuring ample servings of fries, chicken wings, nachos, sausages, and a side salad. If you’re looking for a more modest meal, consider ordering only the fries, as these garner top ratings from online reviewers. Their Belgian Fries (costing 15,000 won) come piping hot and crisp, topped with a dollop of sour cream, nacho sauce, bacon bits, pickles, diced red bell peppers, and ground black pepper. Remember, the establishment remains open till midnight.
BY LEE JIAN [lee.jian@joongang.co.kr]
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