Albert, the charismatic wine steward, is serving me his finest selection.
the fifth sampling goblet of port
. As I sip through my fog (it would be such a shame not to empty each glass), I’m discovering the distinctions among white ports, tawny ports, ruby ports, and vintage ports.
You can certainly combine this with a mild tonic and a hint of orange,” suggests Albert as he lifts his eyebrows and pours an additional measure of Kopke Colhetta 2005 into my glass. “However, it’s delightful enough on its own; wouldn’t you agree?
Certainly! It’s surprising how port can be even more delightful than cough syrup. This tasting at Kopke, the oldest port wine house, truly highlighted this contrast.
Porto
It has been absolutely revelatory, much like the city itself, which I can observe reflected in the golden evening light framing Albert.
While
Lisbon
Has been grabbing all the attention over the last decade, prospering financially and becoming sophisticated thanks to Golden Visa investments, Portugal’s second-largest city, Porto, has long been like the overlooked sibling—Cinderella’s poorer relation.
However, everything is shifting now. Take a trip to Porto for a extended weekend, cram in as many activities as you can manage, and by Sunday evening, the sole thing on your mind will be: “Why didn’t you do this earlier?”
This charmingly compact and easier-to-navigate alternative to Lisbon boasts picturesque medieval lanes that could be plucked from a movie set, structures adorned with intricately patterned Azulejo tiles, elegant Belle Époque cafés lining verdant boulevards, and urban beaches. In addition, it offers the excitement of an authentic amusement park with features like cable car tours, excursions along the Douro River, hands-on museums allowing visitors to craft their own chocolates, vibrant food markets, and countless opportunities for tasting wines and ports.
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Strict planning laws in Porto, which prohibit the destruction of original building facades, mean the city has retained its crumbly charm – and behind these historic walls are a growing number of innovative new restaurants, concept stores and boutique hotels.
A prime example is the Tivoli Kopke, one of Porto’s newest additions in the Gaia area. The historic offices surrounding the active port wine cellars at Kopke have been thoughtfully converted into an opulent establishment.
five-star hotel
With two dining venues, a spa facility, both indoor and outdoor swimming areas, along with a rooftop lounge boasting perhaps the finest vistas across the Douro and historic Old Porto. In the mornings, step out through your French windows to bask in the sight of the terra-cotta rooftops that adorn one of Europe’s most intact urban centers.
Here’s how to get the best out of a short getaway in Porto.
1. Bolhão Market
Food markets come in various forms, but some truly stand out. In downtown Porto stands Mercado do Bolhão, which sets the benchmark among them all. Spread across an entire city block within a stunningly renovated Beaux-Arts structure, this bustling marketplace features 79 food counters along with 10 eateries located upstairs. Upon arrival, be prepared to indulge your appetite; purchase a glass of refreshing vinho verde for just a few euros from one of numerous bars scattered throughout (it’s common to see people walking about holding glasses of wine). Sample the array of freshly crafted tapas dishes sourced directly from the market products such as oysters, sardines, steak tartare toast points, gooey cheese-filled bacalao croquettes, and even sea anemones served right in their natural casings. Don’t miss joining the crowd lining up at Conserveira do Balhão, where both residents and visitors eagerly await affordable portions of seafood tapas priced at only €3 (£2.50) each.
2. Ribeira
Meander through Porto’s historic center via the winding cobblestone lanes until you reach the riverside promenade lined with lively pubs extending towards the Douro River. Despite being bustling with visitors, this spot is ideal for enjoying a beverage as vessels pass by. For an even more memorable experience, reserve a seat at one of the exceptional eateries or tapas spots along Ribeira’s side alleys off the primary thoroughfare. At Sagardi Porto, we stopped for some wine tasting and traditional Spanish-style appetizers which were delightful; moreover, consider making reservations at Cozinha das Flores for a truly inventive dining experience—particularly their piping hot stewed sausage and top-of-the-turnip-rice dish was quite tasty. Each plate here begins around €6 (£5).
3. Pont Luís I
Grab some comfy sneakers and be ready to log plenty of steps because the finest way to explore central Porto is through walking.
by walking
The city is split into two sections: one side encompasses the Douro River along with Porto itself, while the opposite bank includes the Vila Nova de Gaia area. These two zones are linked by the iconic Pont Luis I Bridge, which serves as a central landmark within the urban landscape. Cross over this double-tiered metallic structure via the upper level; from here you can pause for refreshment at the observation deck known as Teleferico Bar before descending to the riverside promenade below using the cable car located in the Gaia sector.
There is an unending flow of activity on the Douro, which winds its way through the region.
Spain
Through the Douro Valley, one of the planet’s premier vineyards. Should your schedule allow, consider reserving a one-hour Six Bridges Boat Tour aboard a classic wooden Rabelo vessel (starting at £15.28 per individual).
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4. Gaia District
Ever since the 17th century, this area has served as the center of the port wine trade. Many renowned port wineries offer visits and tasting sessions; however, they aren’t the only ones anymore.
swanky hotels
And along a bustling riverside filled with bars and seafood eateries, you’ll find the extensive World of Wine, paradise for wine enthusiasts. This complex boasts seven museums, such as The Wine Experience—one of the top wine museums globally—alongside various dining options, a wine school, and even chocolate-making sessions. Entry tickets with wine tastings begin at £17.50; however, numerous seasonal events and classes can be reserved online.
3. Shopping
When visiting Porto, you won’t find many high-end brand shops — the city deliberately lacks designer outlets. However, it excels in offering an array of distinctive home decor items, clothing, gourmet foods, and wines. Livraria Lello justifiably calls itself the “World’s Most Beautiful Bookshop,” and this stunning neo-Gothic gem is so sought-after that you must reserve tickets ahead of time (beginning at €10 (£8.50), which can be used toward purchasing a book).
Further down the road lies Fernandes Mattos & Co., an intriguing three-story boutique offering a blend of fashionable clothing, cosmetics, and accessories—a visit here is worthwhile just to admire the interior design. The shop A Vida Portuguesa showcases an attractive array of home decor items, edibles, jewelry, and more; meanwhile, be sure not to miss the intricately crafted soaps and fragrances available at Claus Porto. Rua da Santa Caterina serves as the principal retail thoroughfare, featuring popular Spanish fast-fashion stores alongside attractions like the striking but often bustling Café Majestic, perfect for enjoying a cup of coffee. If your interests lie in purchasing local foods and wines, explore the areas surrounding the Mercado do Bolhão where traditional Portuguese delicatessens—such as Casa Lourenço—are located.
5. Beach breaks
Porto has a series of
city beaches
To the north and south of the city lie easily accessible spots perfect for a relaxing afternoon. Among them, Praia da Madeira stands out in the southern part. You can take a brief cab ride to Madeira and then stroll back towards Porto via a wooden pathway, going past numerous cafés, pubs, and sandy shores adorned with powerful, tumultuous waves—ideal for watching but not recommended for swimming. Reserve a spot at Brasão Salgueiros for a delightful seafood meal right on the beach sands. Alternatively, should tranquil bathing waters be your preference, venture up north toward Foz’s coastal areas.
Where to stay
Tivoli Kopke Porto Gaia Hotel
Here’s how to experience Porto in style. Established in 1638, Kopke, Porto’s most historic winery, unveiled its luxurious five-star hotel on the property in February 2025. Nestled atop a hill offering sweeping vistas of Porto yet just a stone’s throw from the lively riverfront area, this retreat provides an ideal spot for unwinding post-sightseeing adventures. Amenities include both indoor and outdoor pools, a fitness center, a steam room, sauna facilities, and a spa featuring grape-based therapies. Relax next to the poolside sushi bar before heading up to the rooftop Sky Bar where you can enjoy tapas, craft cocktails, and live tunes as night falls. For those seeking a memorable dining experience, make reservations at the celebratory 1638 Restaurant & Wine Bar which boasts dishes crafted by renowned three-Michelin-starred Spanish chef, Nacho Manzano. Additionally, guests have the option to join separate port wine tasting sessions—a delightful way to explore Portugal’s rich vinicultural heritage.
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Porto A.S. 1828 Hotel
If you prefer being at the heart of things, this charming four-star boutique hotel in the historic center of Porto provides straightforward yet fashionable accommodations along with amiable personnel. Request a tranquil room for a more peaceful experience.
Getting there
British Airways
,
easyJet
,
Ryanair
,
TAP
,
Wizz
and
Vueling
All flights go directly to Porto with fares beginning at £86 for a round trip. The journey takes 2 hours and 15 minutes from London.
The Porto Airport is located 11 kilometers away from the downtown area and can be reached via Metro for €2.60/£2.20 per trip or by bus at a cost of €2/£1.70 each way; both options take approximately half an hour. Alternatively, taking a taxi will set you back about €25/£21 but gets you to your destination faster in just 20 minutes.
Fiona was a visitor at the Tivoli Kopke Porto Gaia Hotel.
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