At 10 am, beams of radiant gold light are breaking through the cloud cover enveloping the wooded summits of the Alishan mountain range in southwest Taiwan. I’m traveling via a vintage steam locomotive, and much remains unchanged from when this engine first chugged through these highland woods back in 1912.
Outside my window, dense groups of hinoki—also called Japanese cypress—are lined up along the path like an honor guard. Their twisted yet upright trunks compete for room with bamboo, which is highly valued by the indigenous Tsou people and utilized for various purposes ranging from building structures to making handicrafts.
For better or worse, this area has been defined by the
Japanese
Those who came following the conclusion of the First Sino-Japanese War in 1895 included forestry specialists sent to the area near the start of the twentieth century, who verified the existence of an extensive population of coniferous trees.
In 1906, the Japanese company Fujita Group set about building a railway, desperate to nurture a forestry industry built on the vast swathes of cedar and cypress blanketing these mountains.
However, achieving this was not simple. The construction was halted in 1908, leading to
Taiwanese
the government assumed control of the project, and in 1912, the initial steam locomotives began running on the tracks.
Thrumming along newly refurbished rails
Today, as I journey through the woods of Alishan National Scenic Area alongside the newly refurbished 71-kilometer route,
railway
(resuming full operations in 2024), it becomes clear why Japan conceded defeat. This path features numerous hairpin turns, 77 bridges, and 50 tunnels—one of which now boasts murals of gigantic sunflowers.
Shay locomotives manufactured in the US were brought in to assist with transporting massive quantities of wood headed for Taiwan’s harbors, yet various challenges proved more difficult to surmount. This area frequently faced disruptions from typhoons, earthquakes, and mudslides, causing significant damage. Building the initial railroad was an extraordinary engineering accomplishment that demanded substantial labor resources.
A significant number of these employees resided in Chiayi, a modest urban center influenced heavily by the logging sector. This town serves as the departure spot for the historical railroad and currently draws many visitors with Hinoki Village—a collection of low-set wooden bungalows constructed originally as residences for those employed in railway and forest management roles. Today, these lodgings have been repurposed.
souvenir
stores offering cedarwood cutting boards and oolong tea cultivated locally.
Unfortunately, the railway came to a standstill during the 1960s with the decline of the forestry sector. Though sporadic services continued afterward, Typhoon Morakot dealt the decisive blow in 2009, leading to the shutdown of a rail route desperately requiring significant maintenance and care.
The railway serves as a ‘living history of Taiwan.’
The employees who revived this railroad in 2024 may not reside in Hinoki Village, yet their dedication is equally profound as that of its former inhabitants.
All those engaged in its refurbishment, be they the station managers stationed at some of the track’s most secluded stops or the engineers who manually installed particular segments of railway in hard-to-reach areas, share this viewpoint. It was not just about swapping out a handful of sleepers.
Mr. Shen Yi-Ching, who leads the Safety Management Division, explains, “The Alishan Forest Railway is more than just a railway; it serves as a vivid chronicle of Taiwan’s past. Established during the period when Japan controlled the island, this railroad was initially constructed for logging operations aimed at extracting our valuable forest resources. Over time, settlements emerged alongside industrial activities, fostering distinctive cultural developments.”
Moreover, this cultural aspect is celebrated by the railway through various means. Some compartments are paneled with aromatic cedarwood, while many stops along the way mirror the ambiance of sacred forest shrines.
As we approach, I observe the conductor leaning out of the window and handing a sizable token, connected to a length of rope, to the stationmaster.
train
When it departs, another token is returned to the conductor. This ceremony has been around since the railroad’s prime era, serving as proof that the train was authorized to travel over the last stretch of tracks and is permitted to continue towards the upcoming segment.
Tourists have replaced cargo
Train stations like Jiaoliping, nestled beneath cedar-covered mountains and a track-side, lantern-lit temple, boast immaculate cleanliness.
All too often,
railways in Europe
turn into repositories for thrown-away bottles, cans, and various debris. However, in this case, any pieces of trash are swiftly cleared away by residents from nearby areas who view the railway as crucial infrastructure. They often come together to carry out scheduled clean-up events.
The trains rumbling down this track weren’t only used for transporting timber—they also ferried provisions and mail, linking residents with distant areas. Nowadays, the freight consists of visitors—a similarly precious resource. Numerous stops serve dual purposes as starting points for various destinations.
hikers
eager to discover the paths meandering through Alishan’s mountainous terrain, sparkling with fireflies.
The workers such as lumberjacks and railway engineers who used to stop at these stops for resting and refueling spots have been substituted with visitors nowadays queuing up at snack stands to indulge in boxed meals (bento) that were earlier consumed by laborers working along the rail lines. It’s advisable to try some turkey rice, which is a local specialty here in this region of Taiwan, accompanied by a steaming cup of oolong mountain tea (gāoshān chá).
Artifacts from the railroad’s prime time are always within reach. You can find old corroded fire-fighting tools previously utilized by maintenance crews to put out blazes ignited by locomotive sparks. Ruan Wen-An, residing beside the small Dulishan railway station, eagerly shares with travelers an artifact that formerly belonged to his grandfather.
At Fenqihu Station, ancient tools are showcased. This location features a grand, wooden locomotive shed that has been converted into an exhibit area, allowing guests to explore the railroad’s past.
Dawn breaks over Taiwan’s highest summit
Many individuals consider the ultimate stop to be Alishan Station, located 71.4 kilometers away from Chiayi. However, the brief yet delightful Zhushan Line, extended in 1984, has also become part of the railroad narrative. This segment represents the sole addition made to the Alishan Forest Railway post-World War II.
After reaching Alishan Station one day earlier, I head back to catch what they call the sunrise train for the half-hour trip to Zhushan Station. Situated at an elevation of 2,451 meters, this station holds the distinction as Taiwan’s highest railway stop. Following extensive refurbishment in 2023, it now boasts a grand canopy shaped like intertwined ribbons and design features evoking the clouds often enveloping nearby mountain summits.
Nature has also influenced its design in palpable ways; close to the entrance, a majestic red cedar emerges through a custom opening in the rooftop. This reflects a Taiwanese interpretation of mid-century modern architecture similar to those found in Palm Springs, where round openings were often created to make room for palm trees. Similarly, nature dictates the timing of departures. These timings vary based on when the sun rises each day and are indicated on the platform signs, which are updated manually.
A
train
The worker informed me that even though this specific trip lasts only 30 minutes, it produces comparable revenue to the revitalized Alishan Forest Railway. This occurs because each morning, visitors rush to catch the train so they can witness the sunrise from an observatory near the Zhushan station, overlooking the far-off mountains. Among the numerous natural attractions visible during the ride is Taiwan’s highest summit, Jade Mountain.
The Alishan Forest Railway has genuinely weathered the passage of time, and it’s appropriate that much of its refurbishment was done manually rather than with machines. This effort represents a labor of affection, and recently, it successfully endured an unforeseen challenge with impressive results.
A short time following its launch in July 2024,
Typhoon Gaemi
The typhoon engulfed Taiwan, leading to landslides that necessitated closing the railway for track clearance. However, contrasting with the typhoon’s impact in 2009, the railway suffered minimal damage and reopened a month afterward—evidence that this fragrant cedar triumph will endure.
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