In true British
fashion
I had always looked down upon the notion of taking a vacation without sunshine.
The UK
summer
is unreliable at most, and if not for the sun, sea, and sangria, honestly, I preferred not to know.
However, my eyes were enlightened by Bergen.
Norway
is an entry point to the fjords, a vibrant town situated among seven mountains and the sparkling western coast.
This tiny Nordic gem might be compact, but it more than holds its own thanks to an impressive array of natural attractions, captivating past, and a remarkably varied culinary landscape.
Following four days spent there, here’s my genuine take on all that Bergen offers. (Spoilers ahead: it earns five stars.)
A journey by train to the fjords
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.
Bergen can be readily reached from the UK via direct flights that last approximately 90 minutes.
Manchester
and London’s
Gatwick
and
Heathrow
airports.
The city is referred to as ‘the gateway to the fjords’ due to its position between the nation’s two biggest fjords—the Sognefjord and the Hardangerfjord.
Norway is famous for these submerged valleys, shaped by glaciers, which are now filled with water.
Scandinavian
nation has over 1,000 of these scenic bad boys, more than any other country in the world.
I traveled to the Sognefjord through the Flåm Railway. It is widely considered as one of
Europe’s Most Stunning Train Routes
It goes past snow-covered cliffs, tumbling waterfalls, and small mountain farms, eventually making its descent to the shoreline of the fjord.
Before departing, I examined the weather report and felt disheartened upon seeing temperatures as low as 8°C in Flåm, where I was planning to embark on a boat journey traversing two arms of the Sognefjord.
However, once up on deck, wrapped in layers including a turtleneck, a fleece, a sweater, and a puffer jacket, I quickly ceased feeling the chill gnawing at my nose and fingertips.
The electric vessel glided quietly along the tight channels, bordered by steep cliffs and dense emerald forests. I tilted my head back to admire the untouched scenery, so engrossed in the view that the chill was almost imperceptible.
Balancing tourism and nature
The region of Western Norway is currently experiencing its time in the spotlight, yet this increased global attention also introduces the difficulties associated with overcrowded tourist areas.
Stein Ove Rolland, who serves as the CEO of
Fjord Norway
indicates that journeys to this region have grown increasingly fashionable recently, as seasoned travelers look for alternatives to Europe’s more famous locations.
Specialists think this increase is connected to more travelers seeking out cooler climates. These individuals are referred to as
coolcations
Google searches for ‘cooler vacations’ jumped by 300% from 2023 to 2024, with no indication of this trend slowing down.
In Bergen, where temperatures seldom climb over 20°C even during the peak of summer, it undoubtedly falls into this category.
The majority of tourists visit during the months from June to August, yet I found there were still numerous visitors when I went in April.
The train ride offered a comfortable level of bustle, yet the ferry was almost completely filled up, and the local bus on the opposite side of the fjord found it challenging to handle the surge of travelers.
It appears Norway is uneasy about welcoming larger numbers of tourists. Last year, a tourism campaign was put on hold due to concerns regarding its effect on the environment, and local authorities might soon gain permission to impose charges.
tourist tax
.
In Bergen, the maximum allowed number of cruise ship passengers per day has been set at 8,000.
Stein informs me that although tourism has always been a crucial aspect of the area, reconciling the requirements of visitors with those of local inhabitants can be challenging. He mentions that the region is taking all possible measures to safeguard the natural surroundings.
He mentions that one approach they are adopting is promoting tourism during the cooler season.
‘We no longer market the summer season specifically, but highlight how unique it is to experience Bergen and the surrounding areas in spring, autumn, and winter,’ he explains.
‘During these periods, there’s increased availability, the scenery remains breathtaking, and the cuisine adapts to showcase seasonal ingredients.’
Europe’s rainiest city
Bergen holds the official title of being Europe’s rainiest city, with over 200 wet days annually, due to the nearby mountains that capture moisture moving in from the North Sea.
However, due to the climate, it’s ideal for nature enthusiasts.
The highest peak in Bergen, Ulriken, standing tall at 643 meters, can be ascended within one to two hours. Alternatively, you can take a cable car for breathtaking views of the gusty ridges and the unfriendly North Sea encircling the town.
Mount Fløyen, on the other hand, features lush forests and twisting paths just a short distance from downtown, accessible via a funicular that reaches all the way to the top.
I had good luck with the weather, something that the locals frequently pointed out; it remained dry during two out of the three days I was in Bergen.
On my final day in the city, the rain arrived at last—and poured down heavily. Yet even though I usually dislike wet weather, I found Bergen impressive during this torrential downpour.
The city’s vivid hues — the chestnut-red rooftops and jade-green forests — maintained their presence despite the metallic gleam of the rainfall. The deluge produced a quiet ambiance that was unexpectedly soothing.
Packing for Bergen
Being an occasional traveler who doesn’t often venture into colder regions, I’m usually unprepared for frigid weather. In Bergen during springtime, you might encounter anything from cool temps to balmy yet rainy and sunny days.
The key apparel pieces I suggest bringing along for your trip are:
- A sweater made of fleece or wool
- A jacket that is both wind-resistant and water-repellent
- A hat and gloves
- Comfortable, waterproof shoes
- Short-sleeve and long-sleeve t-shirts for wearing in layers
Historic charm
As the rain rolled in, I wandered through the winding lanes of Bryggen,
UNESCO World Heritage site
at the heart of Bergen, originating from the 12th century.
The region played a crucial role in the Hanseatic League’s trade network due to stockfish, which is Norway’s traditional (and somewhat polarizing) dried cod.
Today, Bryggen’s medieval heritage is maintained through the distinctive wooden structures, which have been refurbished using traditional techniques. Their vibrant facades now house craft stores, eateries, and artistry spaces.
This area houses Bergen’s oldest eatery, Bryggen Tracteursedet, which dates back to the 1700s. Over the centuries, the structure has also functioned as a courthouse and a school at various points in time.
Currently, it offers regional cuisine such as fish soup paired with tender dumplings, succulent beetroot tartare, and naturally, stockfish accompanied by seasonally selected accompaniments.
Heavily tilted toward the harbor due to its advanced age, Bryggen Tracteusted radiates an old-world allure. The wooden paneled walls, stone flooring, candle-lit chambers, and fur blankets casually placed over chair backs form a snug haven away from the wet cobblestone thoroughfares outside.
The four-course tasting menu, costing 825 NKO (approximately £60), is both plentiful and delectable. The manager playfully mentioned that the structure leans not due to its years, but so diners can leave satisfied and content, practically rolling out of happiness.
Back in my hotel room, warmed and full from creamy artichoke soup, white wine steamed cabbage and nutty rye bread, I scrolled through social media posts of a sunshine-filled weekend back home.
I didn’t experience even a hint of envy.
Bergen, with its historical allure, picturesque scenery, and warm ambiance, had comforted my soul—though it didn’t have quite the same effect on my physical well-being.
Where to go and what places to book for your trip to Bergen?
Getting there
I took a non-stop flight directly to Bergen with
Jet2
Departing from Manchester Airport, return trips for May 2026 cost £131 per individual for each leg of the journey. The carrier provides non-stop services to this destination from six additional British airports: Bristol, Edinburgh, London Stansted, Birmingham, Leeds Bradford, and Newcastle. Additionally, they offer vacation packages lasting either three or four nights in the city.
In the meantime, Norwegian provides round-trip flights directly from
London Gatwick
Starting from £114, as found on Skyscanner. From Bergen Airport, you can reach the city center in about 20 minutes by car, or use the Bergen Light Rail.
The trip lasts approximately 40 minutes and is complimentary.
Bergen Card
, which also provides reductions at certain museums, attractions, and eateries.
The cost of a 24-hour pass begins at £30, whereas a four-day pass will be approximately £54.
Where to stay
I stayed at
Thon Hotel Orion
, a four-star property where accommodations begin at £153 per night.
A mere four-minute stroll away from Bryggen and just ten minutes from Bergen’s primary square lies the hotel, which features amenities such as a fitness center, a bar, and free morning meals. Accommodations range from basic twins to suites complete with living areas and small kitchens.
The Thon Hotel Orion was honored with a 2025 TripAdvisor Traveller’s Choice Award, which is bestowed upon establishments listed among the top 10% on the site.
Ellie Hutchings was a visitor sponsored by Jet2 and Visit Bergen.
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